Published 03/20/2024 by Jared Langford

Men’s watches can be intimidating to the uninitiated. There’s confusing jargon like chronograph and quartz watch movement that you’ve probably heard before but can’t quite define. It might feel like watches just aren’t for you. But it doesn’t have to be that way!

When you finish reading this article, you’ll be a bona fide men’s watch expert and realize they’re not nearly as unapproachable as you first assumed.

We’ll walk through why men’s watches are important, attainable and for men of all styles and tastes. We’ll discuss the essential watch types and outline the dos and don’ts of pairing your watch to your outfit. We’ll explain how watches do that thing they're best known for: tell time. And finally, we’ll discuss the simple rules that make certain your watch fits your wrist; not too big, not too small but just right.

Enough with the prelude, it’s time to shine a light on the world of men’s watches. We’ll dispel, once and for all, any reservations you may have about upgrading your look with a timeless, respectable wristwatch.

a stuhrling original watch with brown leather strap and a silver and gold watch

Why Do People Wear Watches?

Since you’re reading this article, it’s safe to say you have at least a passing interest in men’s watches, but still, it’s important to stop for a moment and ask: why?

There are a few simple answers to this question. First, it is the easiest way to elevate an outfit. Whether you’re rocking jeans and a t-shirt or an expensive tux, a watch—when utilized properly—can bring your outfit to another level. A nice diving watch (which we’ll discuss in depth later) paired with slacks and a button-down shirt can take an unremarkable business casual outfit up a few notches. A chunky watch, decked out in knobs and moon phases and three time zones, can bring some visual interest to an otherwise plain look.

Second, a watch can express your personality. Do you like bold looks? Simple elegance? Daring experimentalism or plain utilitarianism? Your watch says a lot about who you are and how you want to present yourself to the world. We’ll teach you to use this power wisely.

a ferragamo yellow gold navy watch

Third, a watch is a classic conversation starter. Interest in watches varies from enthusiasts who know the rich history and intricate details of watches all over the world, to hobbyists with a modest collection, to beginners just dipping their toe into the world of timekeeping devices; however, everyone has at least a cursory understanding of watches as a fashion accessory. What better way to break the ice at the next office party than a brand-new watch?

Last, a man who wears a watch and wears it well, sends a signal that he knows how to take care of himself. Imagine a man wearing basketball shorts, a tank top and bafflingly, black leather dress shoes. This man lets everyone know they are woefully unskilled at self-styling, in the same way that an elegant dress watch paired with your best suit lets everyone know the opposite: that you are confident, fashionable, and in control of your image.

We’ve done more than enough discussion of the why, now let’s dig into the how.

The Essential Watch Styles And How To Wear Them

There are three broad categories of watches we’ll focus our discussion on today: dress, dive and chronograph. Sure, there are others we could mention, but this article is about getting you the information you need most, without wasting your time with details that can quickly become overwhelming. So, let’s break down, simply and clearly, the most popular watch styles and how to wear them.

Dress Watches

The cream of the crop. The heirloom piece. The type of watch you wear on the biggest nights of your life. The dress watch is an essential in every man’s wardrobe.

If the event calls for black-tie attire, it also calls for a dress watch. With a thin case—to easily slip under a dress shirt cuff—and a black or brown leather band, dress watches are timeless. The face will be simple, without most of the bells and whistles featured in other styles, because dress watches are meant to complement your best outfit, not distract from it. Simply put, these watches are clean, minimalist and classic.

We’ve mentioned black-tie affairs, but dress watches are more versatile than you might think. For example, if you’ve got a business casual outfit in need of a boost, pair it with a dress watch and you’re off to the races. The only off-limits zone for dress watches are casual outfits—especially sportswear. Avoid these types of pairings at all costs.

a group of mens dress watches with leather straps

Dive Watches

Next up we’ve got maybe the most well-known type of watch—and 007’s watch of choice—the dive watch.

As the name suggests, a true dive watch needs at least 100m of water resistance. Additionally, it features large minute hand markings for easy reading, visibility at 25cm of total darkness and maybe most importantly, a unidirectional bezel. This final element, the bezel, helps divers time their excursions and keep track of how many minutes of oxygen they have left.

Now, don’t worry if you’re reading this from land-locked Oklahoma; you don’t need to be a professional diver (or even a beachgoer) to wear a dive watch. This is one of the most versatile watches on this list. It’s of medium size, usually with a metal band, and can be dressed up or down. It can be paired with a casual outfit for a bit of an upgrade or with business formal wear to add a splash of personality. If you’re wearing a tux though, leave the dive watch at home and opt for the dress watch we discussed earlier (unless, of course, you take your cues from James Bond, in which case a dive watch with a tux could be a bold, but viable choice).

a gevril dive watch with a brown leather strap

Chronograph Watches

Let’s get this out of the way first: what does chronograph mean? It’s simply an independent time system within the watch. Think of it this way: a normal watch tells time; a chronograph adds a stopwatch to the package. Oftentimes, a chronograph is paired with a tachymeter, which goes around the rim of a watch and lets you calculate distance traveled, speed and more. Put these features together and you get what is commonly called chronograph watches.

These watches are big, chunky and overloaded with extra dials and features, from dates to moon phases. They are the maximalist counterpart to the dress watch’s elegant minimalism.

With all this in mind, let’s talk about a couple of popular types of chronographs: aviator and racing watches.

a gevril metal and chronograph watch

The aviator watch began, of course, with flight. Pilots used it to track fuel usage and miles traveled. Much like the dive watch, they focus on readability and lean on the larger side. Also like the dive watch, you don’t need to be soaring among the clouds to wear this style of watch with pride.

The racing watch served a similar purpose but was earthbound. Car racers in need of an easy-to-read, versatile watch and timekeeping device birthed the racing watch we know today. Flashier, on average, than the aviator watch, this style makes a definite statement when added to any outfit.

Speaking of which, when is the best time to wear a chronograph watch? As a rule of thumb, this type of watch leans casual. The large and overcrowded watch face can be distracting when paired with formal wear. That isn’t to say that you can’t make a chronograph watch work with a suit but be aware that it would be an unconventional choice.

How Do Watches Work?

We’ve talked about the importance of watches, and given a rundown on styling, but what exactly is going on behind a watch’s face? How do they tell time, and why should you care?

To find the answer, we’ll discuss the two main ways watches tell time: mechanical and quartz.

Mechanical watches are for watch connoisseurs. They are a little finicky and a little high-maintenance, and yet they’re adored because of the craftsmanship and care that went into their creation.

There are two types of mechanical watches, manual and automatic.

a gevril and stainless steel, chronograph watch

A manual watch requires the wearer to wind the crown of the watch daily to provide power through a spring. This results in smooth secondhand movement, and for many wearers, a sense of connection to their watch. When you must care for something daily, you naturally begin to love it.

Automatic watches follow the same concept of the manual watch, except the winding of the spring happens throughout the day with the natural motion of the wearer. This requires less effort, but if you don’t wear the watch for more than a few days, you’ll have to manually wind it.

Mechanical watches, while a marvel in craftsmanship and a favorite of watch-lovers around the world, is not for everyone. Some people just want a watch that tells time easily and reliably. For that, we turn to the quartz watch.

This type of watch is powered by a battery, which allows watches to be massed produced at lower costs. Incredibly, the way these watches keep time is by vibrating a piece of quartz within the watch that bounces 32,768 times a second. Each time this happens, the second hand of the watch moves – no winding necessary. Because of the lower cost and ease, this is the watch type of choice for most watch owners.

Watch Sizing and Shape

A quick sidebar about sizing before we wrap up; because even if you purchase the most expensive watch on the market, if it doesn’t fit well the power is lost. Let’s make sure that doesn’t happen by running through some simple sizing guidelines.

A typical watch will be between 40-44mm, but a better guide you’ve already got with you: your wrist.

If you measure your wrist at a circumference of 6” or less, stay in the ballpark of 38mm. If you measure between 6-7” try out a 40-42mm watch. If your wrist is 7” or more, a 45mm watch is the way to go.

stuhrling original mens watch with a light brown strap

A Final Word On Watches

Watches can elevate a man’s wardrobe in a way few other accessories can, but only if the wearer has the know-how to wear them correctly. You now have that knowledge. With the tools provided here, you can feel confident in your watch choices and express yourself in ways never before possible. 

Next time you put on your best suit, you’ll know to go for a dress watch. When you’re at a casual weekend dinner, your favorite chronograph watch can make an appearance. When you want to make a statement with your outfit, you’ll pull out your boldest driving watch. These are the self-assured choices that let everyone know you are in control of your image and conscious of your style. These are the choices that turn heads and garner quiet praise.

However big or small your watch collection turns out to be, we hope some of the mystery surrounding men’s watches has been dispelled and that you feel ready to begin your accessory journey by shopping with us at Jedora.

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